But the story of Everest is much older than that. In fact, you
have to go back to the 18th century to find the first traces.
And more exactly to 1749, the year in which the first observations
were made of the mountain by monks from the Indian jungle; what
they saw was a very high mountain, and they gave it the reference
of Peak XV. A century later, when the Kingdom of Nepal was being
mapped from 1803 onwards, the British began on a series of topographical
triangulations which produced a figure of 29 002 feet, or 8 839
metres. This height, attributed to Peak XV from 1852 (and from
this date forward, Everest was considered as the highest mountain
in the world) by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, remained
official until 1955.
Once
the altitude of Peak XV had been determined, it needed to be given
a name. The controversy surrounding the naming lasted for 13 years.
The British pretended to ignore the fact that Peak XV already
had at least two local names, Chomolungma, which in Tibetan means
Mother Goddess of the World, and Sagarmatha, which in Nepalese,
Sanscrit and Hindu means "The One whose head touches the
sky". Other of Her Gracious Majesty's subjects urged to the
contrary that these foreign names should be retained at all costs.
Finally, on the proposal of Andrew Waugh, who was then Chief Surveyor
of India, the Royal Geographical Society in London agreed in 1865
that the highest summit in the world should be called after the
man, who 13 years earlier, had been responsible for the great
triangulations of 1852, Sir George Everest.

In the twentieth century, the history of Everest can be divided
into three parts. Interminable and fruitless negotiations aimed
at obtaining permission to penetrate into the forbidden kingdoms
so that the Everest region could be explored, which lasted until
1920, the year in which Tibet finally opened its borders to foreigners.
From 1921 to 1949 (the year in which Nepal also opened its borders).
This is the era of the many attempts, mainly British: out of the
nine expeditions that took place between 1921 and 1947, eight
were entirely British. There were two important milestones during
this period: 21st May 1922, when the barrier of 8 000 metres was
breached for the first time on Everest by the British climbers
Norton Mallory and Somervell (without oxygen). Two years later,
during the third British exploration expedition on Everest, the
same G.H. Leigh Mallory, accompanied by the man he was roped together
with, A.C. Irvine, were seen for the last time at 8 450 m on the
route for the summit. The burning question is still asked today:
were they, yes or no, the first climbers to reach the summit of
Everest?
The middle of the century was to be the major turning point in
the history of Sagarmatha. In 1949, Nepal did indeed open its
borders a few months before Mao and his troops invaded Tibet.
All eyes then turned towards the approach via the South and West
slopes. In 1952, a team of Swiss mountaineers, sponsored by the
Swiss Foundation for Mountaineering Exploration, reached a spot
250 metres from the summit (via the South Col). This was the same
year that the new measurements carried out by the Survey of India
came to the conclusion that the definitive altitude of Everest
would now be 29 028 feet or 8 848 m. Then came the historic moment:
29th May 1953, the mountain coveted by so many had finally fallen
to the New Zealander, Edmund Hillary, and the sherpa Tenzing Norgay
who was on his seventh expedition to the Himalayas (for more details
of this historic event, see the section "29th May 1953").
Things then started to come in a rush. For twenty years, every
possibility for making an ascent was to be recognised by some,
then achieved by others (see "the major expeditions to Everest").
No fewer than 43 nations were to launch themselves, with varying
degrees of success, at conquering the roof of the world. After
the various routes leading to the summit had been opened up (the
route via the Khumbu glacier being by far the most frequently
used), it was time for the craziest of challenges. From the 1980s
onwards, there was to be a succession of solo ascents, 'express'
ascents, ascents without oxygen, descents on skis, winter ascents,
etc. Everest became the setting for all sorts of unusual events
and most extreme record attempts (spending a night at the summit),
and all kinds of stunts via the media. The Frenchman, Marc Boivin,
even succeeded in paragliding from the roof of the world. This
adventure took place on 26th September 1988; his flight down to
camp II, located at around 6 300 m, lasted for 11 minutes...
While Everest is the dream of all Himalayan climbers, over the
years, it has also become a considerable source of foreign currency
for the Nepalese government. In fact, it has taken full advantage
of the general rush for its high peaks (Nepal has more than 1
350 summits over six thousand metres) to place strict regulations
on the access to adventure by imposing heavy taxes on expeditions
to reserve their summits - 50 000 dollars for a team of a maximum
of 7 people; each additional climber (with a maximum of 12, not
counting the sherpas), has to pay an additional 10 000 dollars
each. When the expedition opts to take the South Col, there is
an additional fee to pay of 20 000 dollars.
The result of this policy is that Everest today is a very busy
mountain (especially via its usual South Col route). In a good
season, it is not unusual to see twenty or so expeditions and
several hundred people fighting for a spot on the ladders set
out on the Khumbu glacier to climb over the crevasses (these crevasses
sometimes fetch a high price) or to find a real bottleneck going
up the famous Hillary Steps, a delicate part that climbers have
to negotiate before reaching the summit.