Polar Challenge 2004
Westnottinghamshire College

17th December 2004 : In Honour Bound
This is the final dispatch before we depart for home, as all expedition jobs in country will have been completed. It focuses solely on the Polar Challenge team, without whom the objectives would not have been achieved.
An expedition stands or falls by the decisions made by the leader. The principals of leadership I was taught at RAF College Cranwell I have used here and on all expeditions.
Delegate jobs and let people be empowered to contribute to the team. Accept advice and then consider all options before making a decision; yet make that decision fast and sure. Better to make a wrong decision than none at all, for hesitation spells the end of command. Stick by it or faith will be lost by the team. Express no doubts and be totally confident - even if one doesn't feel it.
Saying all that one must have a team that will follow this way. In this the Polar Challenge team did. We have worked together as a unit since June this year and some of us much longer. Therefore on the expedition each person was able to play an important and vital role.

Carl has moved on from being a young student to a young man with the capacity to make independent decisions of magnitude in a foreign country. He has liaised with national media and marketing organizations back home armed solely with one satellite phone. He has taken on the sole responsibility of expedition photographer and recorder. No mean feat whilst operating at -30°

Robert on the other hand has used his communication skills to their full extent, talking and liaising with all nationalities both in Chile , Antarctica and Norway. He has earned the goodwill of these people and therefore won people over to the expedition's cause and the team. Such relationships can be vital when a problem is encountered and also leaves a good lasting impression.

Without Gary our language problems would have been 'difficult.' Having a team member who can speak the language fluently gives a team a major head start. Its worth is immeasurable. Complementing that skill has been Gary 's support and faith. This has been ongoing and constant throughout the expedition and prior.

All teams have weaknesses and strengths. Our strengths as a whole outweighed any individual weakness. Yet always let people operate to their strengths in a free role under loose guidance. They can even be allowed to use their weaknesses if suitable; maverick tendencies being one; under strict guidance (if needed) - magic can be accomplished. And dreams realised. This requires bold management and leadership yet the results outweigh the risks if one has the courage to let people fly and operate to the maximum of their capabilities.
If situations allow. If conditions dictate otherwise, such as the ever changing weather encountered in a polar environment, then one must resort to a more 'command' style of leadership.

Shackleton, perhaps the greatest of all polar leaders, specifically chose team members who had strength of character, yet who would not undermine his authority in times of crisis.
This was in some ways how our team operated. All three team members have their own unique qualities, they are very confident and driven; they needed to be in order to 'cope' with operating at the far side of the world where one's very survival depends on individual competence and team spirit. Yet they all responded to both 'laissez faire' leadership and command, without question or hesitation.

The whole Polar Challenge has been a testimony to the vision, boldness and ambition not only of West Notts College - it's Principal/Senior Management/Governors - yet also the expedition team. For they were at the sharp end. Not only did they hold the reputation of their college in an icy grasp, but also the reputation of youth and college/school expeditions across the country.

I believe they did it right. The college did it right.

It has been an honour to work alongside this team and the utmost privilege to stand at a spot where few people have trod. Together we have upheld our personal motto - 'strength and honour.' And to see what our heroes saw, together as a team. First and last.
In honour bound. Steve myk

16th December 2004 : The Last Hurdles
This will be the penultimate dispatch before we head back home.

Today we linked up with Professor Lloyd Peck of The British Antarctic Survey, whilst he was delivering his first christmas lecture at The Royal Institution. We had sent some images to him which went live on the lecture - the team at the pole, walking there and the Terra Nova tents camped high on the plateau.

The afternoon was spent trying to get the pulks freighted back, and just as before we left it is the single most difficult thing we have had to deal with. That problem should be sorted tomorrow.
Carl is doing a fantastic job liaising with college and the marketing department and Gary 's spanish has been invaluable today.

Keep watching the web site and sending messages as the team are missing home now and can't wait to get back.

A big hello to Peter Wheeldon. Beam me up!

Picture enclosed is of the ceremonial pole. Carl and I helped dig the hole for it as it needs re - digging once in a while. We have also run round the world... Steve myk

15th December 2004 : Once more; The Straights of Magallen
We arrived back in Punta last night, showered and headed out to dinner. A whole group of people met up who had been to Antarctica . A guy called Andy treated all - thanks Andy.

It was only this morning when we looked at the web site and phoned home that we got an idea of the support and attention back home. It is truly amazing and humbling. A very big thank you to everyone who has contacted the web site. When we return we will be organising an official Polar Challenge presentation evening which will tell the whole story - this will most likely be in the New Year.

I must mention all the staff once more at ALE, a fantastic bunch of people who make dreams happen in the harshest conditions on earth. Professional to the hilt and down to earth with it. Today has been hectic as we have sorted out and dried all the gear in preparation for shipping back.

Tomorrow we are doing a link up with Channel 4 for the Royal Institution Christmas Lectures and Professor Lloyd Peck. It still hasn't sunk in. I have to say to myself - "we've walked to the south pole." The others are the same. Di, it seems a long time since I walked into your office and asked if we could do a trip with a difference. Rob Benton - notice picture enclosed, not many contours dude !

Tonight we are going out for a quiet meal in Fiona's favourite restaurant. We will raise a glass to all those at home, in thanks and appreciation.

Steve
myk

Personally it has been an honour and privilege to lead the team, and a feeling of pride, that although we only did the 'last degree', we did it as our own team.
Antarctica is a harsh and beautiful continent, a timeless place were one can live totally by one's own code. It is my hope that the students will go away from this experience now believing that strength of purpose, honour to friends and an un-questionable belief in their own abilities will carry them through life; and during that journey at some times they will think back to a time and a place. A place, the far side of the world, a time not to be forgotten. Where dreams come true if you are bold enough to grasp them. The South Pole.
Steve
myk

13th December 2004 : Pain is temporary, quitting is forever
It took us the best part of 10 days. Inching our way across the polar plateau . It is without doubt the hardest physical thing any of us has ever done.
60 nautical miles. Average temperature -25° at an altitude of over 10 000ft.
On the Sunday we aimed for the pole we set off at 7am and arrived at 1.30 ish after a hard day.

It didn't really sink in to start with - it still hasn't. Yet a huge sense of relief.

The lads Carl and Robert were awesome. Gary also.

In a whirlwind 24 hours we are now back at Patriot Hills. Letting it all sink in.

This may be a bold statement; yet I think these two young students have set a new standard in youth expeditions - backed by the Young Explorers Trust. Not in terms of science or exploration - but in the historical context of the expedition end goal - the pole. Also in terms of the remoteness.
In an age where school trips and outdoor activities are becoming rarer. Carl, Robert and Gary have proved that anything is possible. Yes it took 2 years to plan and gain approval; but it was worth it. To see the pride on their faces as they stood where Captain Scott and his team had.

Our aim though is educational - to inspire the young people in our community to do great things. Not to let obstacles stand in the way of your dreams.
You may be told you will never amount to anything - don't believe them. A maverick - ignore it. Believe in yourself and the power that comes from within.
Whatever you want to do when you grow up - do. Even if you are grown up - still to do it.

Whatever your dream is in school or in life it can happen. Old fashioned virtues - such as courage, hon our and strength got this team to the pole. Like the tales of Scott and Shackleton - which need to be told in school - again and more.

Yet we were the tip of massive support...
Di McEvoy Robinson, and the governors of West Notts , the Senior Management Team.- especially Nick for stepping in for John Coombs. Thanks John and Mike.
John Shaw and all the team and pupils at Meden School - A massive thank you - your turn next!
Mike and Fiona Thornewill. Thank you.
Ian Forsdike MBE. This ones for you.
Paul Rose, Punch Wilson and Crispin Day for help.
Our Patron, Sir Ranulph Fiennes.
All the sponsors like ALITE, Wilkinsons and the countless others who we will be visiting on our return.

Yet also to the families of the team who let them chase a dream to the end of the earth.

The aim at West Notts is to re-invent the future of learning. By mounting and completing an expedition to the South Pole I believe puts that statement - those words into reality.

We used to have a motto - 'go further.'
Done it.

To all the pupils at Meden school, Warsop. Your fundraising helped this happen. You have an inspirational head teacher in John Shaw -Year 9/10 get ready for Borneo 2006. Selection starts at Easter; Mountain Challenge. Steve myk

12 December 2004 / The South Pole
Today on 12th December 2004 , 1.30pm GMT . The West Nottinghamshire Polar Challenge Team arrived at the South Pole. All are well yet very tired and happy. A full dispatch will follow tomorrow as we are still letting it all sink in. Yet -Di we did it.
Aspire Achieve AdvanceSteve.

11th December 2004 / It's Not About The Pole
Guess which book we've been reading? 23 months ago I took Otto my dog a walk in the local woods. A young man from a nearby village had just come back from the South Pole. I looked at Otto - he looked at me. We headed back to draw up a plan. I had been trying for a few years to do the same thing.
Gaining experience over several years; we had just set up a new Outdoor Education programme at West Notts - the South Pole would be the perfect showcase for the course and the college.
Otto chased no more squirrels that day.

Having spoke to Di our Principal, she tentatively agreed - yet we must get Governors' appoval. That took 3 months - to get the go ahead to 'look into it'.
We selected students - began raising money - over £120,000 in total - trained in Scotland , Norway and Greenland . Every bit of kit has been sponsored - training programmes devised.
And it has come down to one day. Mike - 'quitting is temporary - pain lasts forever'. Slight deviation. Yet every second counts.

Just like Lance Armstrong - who came back from cancer, one member of this team suffered a life threatening illness .
The South Pole is a symbol - that any obstacle can be overcome. And that is the message to all the school children following this. Never give in and never give up. Your dreams will be real one day if you have the power to believe.

Position - south 89 52 934 / west 096 20 091
Duration - 7 hours. Distance - 8.11 nautical miles
Temperature -20° / In tent 5° / Wind 5 knots / Clouds all day, then near whiteout conditions. Sastrugi slightly less.
Steve

10th December 2004 / The Young Explorers Trust
What are you doing right now? This precise moment.
My students are walking across the highest, coldest and largest continent on the planet.
They are demonstrating that the youth of Great Britain have a drive and an ambition to succeed.
They are endorsed by the Young Explorers Trust. An organization in the UK that screens and checks expeditions being done by young people.
One of the main men in ALE is involved, yet Ted Grey has done more work to foster the spirit of youth expeditions than I know. Well Ted - The Young Explorers Trust has now ventured into Antarctica .

The value of expeditions for young people is awesome. It strips away the layers snd they find there true self. In Antarctica on the polar plateau there is no hiding place. Last Degree or not these two lads are following in the footsteps of greats - Scott, Amundsen, Shackleton, Fiennes, Swan and the Thornewills. Now if that isn't proof of the value of the Young Explorers Trust I don't know what is.

It was a tough day today and they didn't complain once.
Position - south 89 44 982 / west 087 55 588
Temperature -25° / Inside 5 degrees°
Time travelled - 7 hours, distance = 7.9 nautical miles
Overcast all day with small snow showers, ground firm yet undulating, sastrugi all day. Max height 2ft
Steve

9th December 2004 / Afternoon Tea
This afternoon we decided to have afternoon tea in true English tradition.With the Chilean Army...

After a hard morning uphill Carl spotted a dot on the horizon. It spurred us on as it was the only thing we had seen for a week.
It could have been the Malaysian girl who is heading out to Patriot, or a science team from the pole. Yet as we got nearer we saw it was a Giant Snow Cat train. Indeed it was a Chilean Science/Army expedition heading for Patriot hills. After we asked them where the nearest burger van was they invited us in for tea.
So we sat and had tea and biscuits in the living accommodation. They also had showers, cinema, a kitchen and satellite.
After half an hour we decided we had better leave as we would have ended up going back to Patriot with them.

Now a great big snow cat train over 50 ft long and weighing a fair few tons leaves quite a trail. I'm afraid we are now following a track the size of a country lane that goes straight to the pole - it even skirts the radio antenna's.

Mike - it was like Billy Smart's Circus coming towards us. Navigation should not be a great problem. Yet we still keep track.

A big hello to Ted and Margeret Grey, great to hear you are following the trip.
The Young Explorers Trust have screened this expedition which we hope will profile the value of expeditions for young people.
Also high to the pupils of West Bridgford school.

Position south 89 37 166 / west 085 32 599
Temperature -22° / Inside 5° / Wind - 2 knots
Time travelled 6.45 hours Distance 8.2 nautical miles

We still have clear blue skies with low cloud on the horizon. Surfaces are still good with sporadic sastrugi of low height. Steve

8th December 2004 / Leg on
Horse analogy continued - My horse Oliver is lazy sometimes, therefore he is 'leg on'. Lots of hard work needed.
Today was like that, we upped the hours to 7 and made over 8 nautical miles. I find it hard to comprehend looking after horses in this environment, (not that I do - my wife does most of that.) Imagine how Captain Oates got on.
We wake at 6.45am and get breakfast on. Then we melt snow for the days water - 2 litres each. By 8am we are outside and breaking camp. At 8.30 - 8.45 we are off. One person breaks trail for an hour and then we swop. A five minute break in between for fluids and food. 7 of these later we stop and make camp. That's between 4.30 and 5pm.
Stove on and tea, melt snow for evening drinks and the morning. We then check our position, write the dispatch and check in with Patriot at 7.45pm .
That's our day. What must it have been like to look after horses in the morning and at night?
Carl and Robert have been fantastic today. Gary says hello to Foundation Studies - keep her into the wind Mr. Goodall.

Position south 89 29 010 / west 084 06 466
Temperature -15° out, 5° degrees in tent / Wind - 2 knots
Time travelled - 7 hours- distance = 8.1 nautical miles
Weather is still good, no cloud at all, firm sufaces, sastrugi 1ft in places - at maximum, contrast excellent. Steve

7th December 2004 / 'I look above - does an angel...'
It seems at sometimes during this expedition that there is a higher purpose at work. Now don't think the cold is getting to me - it isn't. Yet there have been to many coincidences.
Today we had a tough morning over some very undulating ground. It was then Robert's turn to lead - he struggled to maintain a straight course, yet Gary gave him a couple of pointers and within 10 minutes we were on fantastic ground. It was as if someone showed us the way. Thank you.

We walked for 6 hours 15minutes today thereby extending the time and distance. However, to continue the equestrian theme, it feels like we've pulled shoes off 10 horses today. Ask any farrier (Callum) and he'll tell you.
One thing that being out here doing The Last Degree puts into perspective is those people that do the 'full journey' or an Antarctic crossing. Truly determined people. And yet - to do it solo - in a fast time is fantastic. Fiona - total awe.

Position - south 89 20 854 / west 83 33 468
Time travelled - 6.15 hours , distance 7 nautical miles
Temperature -10° / Wind, 0 knots
Conditions remain great. Clear sky, great contrast, no cloud. Sastrugi in places-moderate. Steve

6th December 2004 / The Main Eight
Most of you will read the title and think, what? Kathryn, Jane, Zoe and anyone associated with Bloomsgorse Trekking Centre will know.
I used to help out there, ride, drive the bus - the cushy jobs. Some of the horses were stabled in the 'main eight'. Eight boxes to muck out. Now the girls that mucked those out worked their socks off. In all the time I was there I probably mucked out 1.
The point being it feels like we have mucked out all main eight today - on a Saturday.
It has been up hill all day - well a slight incline. We have stuck to the plan though and increased to 6 hour days. The plan is to increase up to 8 in a few days time.
Conversation during the day is limited as we do a guided tour of the plateau. Such as - 'left' - 'right' - 'stop' - 'go'. That's it unless we talk at breaks. Whilst walking most of the team go on mind walks...

Position - south 89 13 950 / west 085 04 480
Temperature -18° / In tent 2° / Hours travelled = 6, miles done 6.18 nautical
Weather is still clear and sunny, the ground is becoming a little more undulating with small 'sastrugi', 6 to 10 inches. Steve

5th December 2004 / Getting up to speed
Well 2nd day on the go. Great weather again. We did 5 hours walking time today and have 6 Nautical miles to show for it.
Now you may think that's not a lot. Yet we are walking at the equivalent of 12,000ft (3,650metres) -altitude. We have 10 days food and fuel for the walk - plus 7 days for any delay at the pole. So our pulks are heavy.
But the overall plan is working; a rest day to combat altitude - a short shake down day and today the routine established. From here on in the time and distance will be increased gradually. Robert did a great leg and led us into camp whereupon we had a few repairs to make. Tonight we have mended a ski and a trouser zipper.

Position- south 89 07 930 / west 086 39 732
Distance - 6 nautical miles / Temperature , -18° outside / Inside 9° degrees
Wind speed - 1 knot

Clear blue sky with slight clouding on the horizon. Good snow conditions under foot with very slight sastrugi in places. Good contrast on the near horizon. Steve

4th December 2004 / Shake Down Day
After a day resting to combat the effect of altitude we moved off rather slowly today. It soon became clear this was to be the shakedown day.
People got used to what clothing system works and what makes them too hot. Also the only way to learn not to lean over with your mask on is to do it. A frozen mask all day is not fun.
We had not traveled far when a couple of people developed bad head-aches. Therefore we stopped and put the tent up.

This was always the plan- a rest day and a slow day thereafter. The weather is great -- a shame not to be moving - instead we are drinking. Water only I'm afraid.

Distance traveled -3 nautical miles / Position - south 89 02 366
west 087 12 719 / Wind 3 knots / Temperature outside - 13° / Temperature inside - 4°
Sunny, good under foot, cloud over the horizon, clear sky above.
Steve

3rd December 2004 / The Polar Pony Express
It's begun. We spent yesterday at Patriot with a possible flight in the evening. We spent the day doing sponsor photos and resting. After being invited into first class for a fantastic meal we got the call to fly at 10pm . By 11 we were on our way- no refuel at Theils- as they decided to get up to 89° south do a quick top up and refuel on the way home. Fantastic flight. Flying south over the Antarctic continent only then do you get an insight into what Fiona Thornewill did last year.

The ground was good and we set down 60 nautical miles from the Pole.
By the time Paul had turned the plane around we had the tents up and dug in.We are now spending the day here acclimatising, drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the awesome situation.

We now have our parcel to deliver to the base commander at the pole. We are the polar postmen - and with an equestrian link - the polar pony express. Zoe - reckon you could arrange a drop off - Chancer, Smokey Joe, Oliver and Strip.
A big thank you to a few people who helped us get to this point. Mike and Fiona, all ALE staff and The Young Explorers trust.

No distance travelled on foot
Position - south 88 59 801 / west 087 40 580
Altitude - 9080ft / Temperature outside is -30° / Inside tent 3° / Wind speed 10 knots
Weather is clear blue sky, surface haze on horizon, good snow conditions under foot with minimal sastrugi, contrast on near horizon is good and no cloud cover.
Steve

2nd December 2004 / The Pace of Life
Time takes on a different meaning at Patriot whilst waiting for the weather to improve. This is our third day in the camp. The weather needs to be good at the Theil Mountains -the South Pole and back here. Each morning Di the Ops manager briefs us on the situation, if Jacko the weather man comes in we know its bad. This morning he came in. Yet not all bad news. The clouds are breaking up in the South. Di has stood the pilots down for the day in case the weather clears this evening. This could be a possibility. Jacko gets a satellite picture in the evening- we don't get satellite passes in the afternoon. At least now we are looking at flying soon rather than a complete no go. We 'should' be on our way in 24 hours. Although we are sat here time does pass quick. Rather than rushing around at home you find yourself just being. We get up, walk over to the expedition tent and have breakfast. Breakfast will last a couple of hours. Before we know it we are going for a ski and just enjoying the scenery. All of a sudden it is evening - yet you can't tell because it is daylight 24 hours. All our kit is ready, everyone is fit and well and we wait. Carl has a confession; Laura- he has eaten the christmas pudding.
Tonight we have been invited over to the staff tent for a meal. This is something everyone is looking forward to - especially Gary , who is aiming to eat the entire food store of Patriot hills !
Robert says hello to Sutton Centre school and a big hello to the 14-19 schools academy team at West Notts . Temperature is a balmy -5 degrees and 8 knots of wind outside the tent.
Steve

1st December 2004 / Patience camp
The waiting game continues. Yet what a place to wait. The weather is good where we are. Sunny with still a little cloud over the mountains.
But there is cloud all the way down to the Thiel mountains and up onto the polar plateau. So we are spending another full day at Patriot.
This morning we sorted out the fuel into foam packed fuel containers. Fuel contamination is a big issue, in terms of it spoiling the food. We therefore fill the fuel bottles we cook with which stays in the cook box. The other fuel stays in the sealed containers it comes in. These we store in small plastic boxes packed with foam. Perhaps a little overkill yet one cannot be to careful. Also the fuel is packed in a pulk with no food in it. We went for a small mini ski trip last night - a shake down to adjust bindings and for people to find there own method of clothing adjustments. Di, the camp manager has met with us to discuss final plans. Also with Jason who we call each night to report conditions and location.
We are sharing the expedition tent with The Invesco Perpetual Challenge, the Landrover team are with us who have realised the Defenders can't get to the pole. The other half of the team is camped the other side of the continent. Also in the tent is a Malaysian woman who is ski-ing and kiting back from the pole. So there we are life at the far side of the world. A big high to all at King Edward School , Mansfield .
Steve

29th November 2004 / Patriot Hills - Antarctica
All the Mt Vinson climbers got out last night to their base camp, as the weather was great. However, we are in the middle of a large low pressure system. The weather is good at the pole- yet the re-supply at Theils is covered in cloud. It looks like we could be here for a few days. Guess whose name cropped up again? John Coombs. The outgoing Doctor came up and said-'you must know John.' John Coombs is known all over the world! We are sharing the expedition tent with another British team who have a group crossing the continent. They also have two Landrover Defenders down here with the aim of getting them to the pole.
In terms of our planning we have picked up our fuel. 65 dollars a gallon-coleman fuel. We have 20 litres.
We are checking out the skis and kit this afternoon and just getting used to life in the Antarctic.
The pulk is fully mended with a brand new runner on it. Rivetted on, all singing all dancing. Carl is Mr Fixit.
Just to give you some idea of the camp, it consists of the following: three big steel frame 'weather haven' tents. The staff have one, one is a workshop and the other is for expeditions. Toilets consist of small tents with buckets for number 2's and an oil drum for pee.
There are two runways - one for the transport plane made of natural blue ice, the other for the twin Otters is marked by black bin liners. Finally there is an ice cave for storage, a weather tent which also doubles as air traffic control, and if you feel really in tune with the weather - the ice toilets.
Outside temperature is -14° with 4 knots of wind.

29th November 2004 / The Magic Kingdom
Last night we went to bed having been told to receive a weather check at 8.30am . At 6am we got a knock on the door saying be ready to go in half an hour. The winds were 2-6 knots at Patriot. Clear skies; the best start we could hope for. Only one day delay in Punta.
At 7.15 we were sat on the plane and blasting of to Argentina . Two hours later we were on our way to Antarctica . The flight didn't seem as bad as last year, which was a relief.
The landing on the blue ice runway was perfect. Very soon we had the tents up and eating the welcome meal in the staff tent. Tonights job is to get the pulk mended which Carl has already set off to aquire staff and tools.
We are sat at- S80 18 124 / W081 21 005 / Temperature is -12 degrees / Wind is 2 knots on the runway.
Clear blue skies with a little cloud over to the west. Tomorrow is shake down day. The team say a big hello to David Armstrong and the guys in year 10 at Brunts. /Steve