UK / Polar Challenges / Expeditions / The Wall

DISPATCHE 3 : 15 - 19 December

Tuesday December 19th, 6pm : First plans

Today, in any case, we have attacked the ascent. Breakfast at 08.00. André Georges had already left at 05.30, on his own, all alone like a Swiss bear… A bit of an upheaval among the population except for the boss (me) who had been certain that he would set off before the rest… Had he not said yesterday evening during the dinner prepared by the cook in person (Philadelphian zakouski and salmon on salt biscuits, spaghetti with onions (the only fresh vegetable that we brought with us, and then of course frozen) and diced bacon from Magerotte in Nassogne (home made), all seasoned with coriander-flavoured cream…), had not André said: "What a great meal! I'll come down again every Sunday evening: the creamery is well worth it!"

"Making a single hole in the granite can take anything between 12 and 25 minutes... "

Today, we've put in some good work. André went up the first fixed rope as far as the foot of the first difficulties, which start at about 250m above the bergschrund (a crack between the rock and the glacier) and 150m from the level of the base camp which, for its part, is 40 minutes' walk away. This first part is mixed (snow, ice and rock); rock that is very typical of the place, which I shall describe later. It has a fragile surface but is in fact extremely hard. I have already found some small strips of red lichen, and we'll collect some samples later to take them back in sterile jars.
So we used the technical equipment as far as the bergschrund and then started to climb with ropes. To attach the fixed ropes, we have to make 10mm holes in the granite by hand with a hammer and Rawplugs; just making a single hole can take anything between 12 and 25 minutes. We have put 4 ropes on the ascent and 3 relayed at the foot of the difficulties.
The weather? Incredibly fine for several days! Unprecedented! We have also taken 60-litre plastic jerrycans up to the bergschrund for collecting snow and ice so that we can make water on the rock face later on. We will be filling them tomorrow.
Tomorrow, Daniel and Ralph are going to make the first lengths in the inner corner (departure fissure), we are going to strengthen the left relay and get the film and photo crew up. We have in fact to move to the left because, after the first 35 metres of climbing, there is a huge fault that looks pretty unstable; it could even fall when they get above it tomorrow. Who knows? The first real dangers. So we have to be super-prudent.

From now on, what I felt last year when faced with this superb granite monster is confirmed; the rock has some entirely extraordinary routes in store for us. In any event, all the climbers are of the opinion that the choice of this pillar was a first class choice. And I'm evidently not now referring to this Antarctic environment which is, it goes without saying, more than sublime. Of course, we'll be bringing back photographs, such as you've never seen...

This evening, we're all a bit tired. Ralph and André went to bed early. Daniel Mercier, ditto. The same as he does every day, furthermore. He's an experienced athlete, but fragile. He has to give a maximum of himself, or else he feels shattered - and I'm using one of his own words.
Only the boss, Ronald, René and Jorge decided to enjoy the exceptional evening light. They are going to do some interviews or take some photographs. You should hear Jorge talking about the light and the lumen, the colour contrasts, the background shading! A veritable symphony of images… Each and every one of them is a true artist. Kathelijne, for her part, is fully integrated into our group of unwashed he-bears. Each evening, she goes off on her own to smoke her little cigarette or listen to a CD, speakers on her hair, walking on the icy whiteness… Poetry in motion!
I must end these few lines now as the battery is showing signs of exhaustion. Greetings to all and sundry.

Tuesday December 19th : At the basecamp...
from Ronald Ross (story & photos)

Alain and the five other climbers arrived at the Holtanna basecamp Friday afternoon. At Blue One we were waiting for the Twin Otter to return from SANAE to take us to join the others. The Twin

Otter finally got back around 11.30pm, the weather both at Blue and at Holtanna were perfect. There were four of us to fly up to Holtanna, 30 miles south of Blue One, and many kilos of gear for the entire expedition. The equipment and the supplies were packed so tightly against one side we were just able to squeeze into our seats.
It took us 20 minutes to get to fly to the Fenristunga mountain range where the Holtanna peak is located. The pilot circled several times to find where the sledging party had made camp. A few more 180's and then we were on the snow taxiing to

within 500 feet of the camp, it was 1.30am. We had a semi circle of mountain peaks directly in front of us. We did a very quick unloading, some picture snapping and then turned into our tents before the sun went behind the mountains.

The next day was the camp was a hive of activity. The ten of us spent all day putting up tents and building snow walls around the tents. The comms tent and the cook tent are large 2m domes. A very elaborate igloo was built for a toilet by Andre Others built a pyramid out of snow for the solar panels to be placed on. This basecamp is beginning to take shape and look like the real thing. We celebrated our industry with a big cookup of mashed potatoes and fish fingers at 10pm, washed down with a nice mug of south african beer.

Sunday, more additions to the basecamp. The idea is to make the camp and tents secure in case a sudden storm comes up with only a few people in camp.

We have enjoyed very good weather for more than 10 days now. There has been light wind during the day and nothing at night. THe nights are much colder up here. I have measured -15F from my tent at 3am. I can receive the weather transmissions from the Wx at Blue One and do a quick compare of temperature and wind. For the moment the weather there and here is very similar we are 28miles distant from Blue One.

Yesterday I went for a walk to a coll opposite Holtanna with Daniel through binoculars we examined the proposed route up the wall. It is very hard to get a sense of scale. The exposed rock section is 2500ft high the total height is around 8000ft.
Our basecamp is located about half a mile from the start of the trek to the base of the wall. From the climbers I have talked with, they tell me this will be a very tough technical and logistic challenge.
There are pockets of snow on the wall, but most of the water for the climb will have to be hoisted up. The current plan is to melt water at the snow line and freeze it in plastic bags for transportation up the wall. Once the climbers are above a certain height they will not return to the basecamp. They may be on the wall for 20 days, that's a lot of water for 6 people!

They also need to take extra for the climb down the other side and for the expectation of bad weather. The day will be governed by the sun, they will only climb when the sun is shining on the wall. At all other time it is just too cold. Four portaledges will be used. These are like a tent which are attached to the wall and will be used at night for sleeping and cooking in. They measure 5ft by 7ft, two persons per tent.

Monday, the group of climbers have left for the wall. Today they will ferry supplies to the snow line to establish a small camp there. Ropes will be attached for the first pitch.

As a matter of fact, the entire little group of people of The WALL met up at the foot of the Holtanna in the course of Saturday (the climbers had in the end taken five days to make the journey from Blue One and the Orvin Mountains) and the base camp was rapidly set up: two bell tents, one for the kitchen and the other for the communication equipment, which can be called the office.
A small hideout for the latrine and an igloo built by André Georges, Jorge Lübbert and René Robert where the food is stored. No more personal tents, of course.
This is the entire microcosm ready in place before this enormous granite monster that mockingly awaits them.
Today, the first reccies have been made on the North face of the Holtanna, the one you can make out on the right of the photograph.

The expedition's advance guard (Kathelijne Van Heukelon, Ronald Ross, Alain Bidart, René

Robert and Jorge the cameraman) arrived at the foot of this magnificent mountain in the early evening of Saturday. The flight took barely half-an-hour, and the base camp was set up straightaway.
Although we have not received any news since Saturday, it is probable that the five climbers have also reached the Holtanna base camp. To give you a better idea of what is lying in wait for them, it is the rock face on the right that the climbers have to scale.